I seem to be cursed when it comes to mice. The Logitech G502 Lightspeed developed the dreaded left button double click/no click issue. I’ll have to send it in for warranty repair after I settle in at my next stable location. Or maybe order a better switch kit for it.
So it’s back to a cheap mouse. I happened across one for $20 that is similar to the ergo mouse I liked (posted earlier in this thread) and this one has the forward/back buttons below the thumb so I’m not tipping it over when pressing them. As I wished for.
This thing would be about perfect if it was larger (they only come in “small”) and a neutral color (only comes in green/teal or purple). It feels a little light & cheap but for $20 I can’t complain.
This sounds like the kind of thing where you’d find tons of YouTube tutorials on how to “clean the contact” or “replace the relays” or something like that. Not doable for this model?
On Reddit and other places the word seems to be that it’s the common doom of the device. But I haven’t yet taken the time to go through Logitech’s troubleshooting instructions. Partly because much of it can’t be done on my Mac since their control software is awful and incomplete on that platform. Like, they suggest switching the left button to another function then back, but the Mac software doesn’t allow assigning functions. Something they don’t disclose anywhere on their web pages. They simply claim that their control software works on Mac and Windows. I’ll need to set it up on my Galaxy Book 12 when I get around to it.
It’s a known issue that’s plagued the mouse for years. I was hoping it wouldn’t strike me.
Edit: or maybe I’ll just count it as a loss if cleaning, etc., doesn’t help. Too many people get the same problem soon after receiving a replacement. Darn it, I should have done more research.
As of a couple years ago they started blaming the customer and refusing warranty service.
“Update from four months ago. After following the steps that Logi_Elie posted above I contacted Logitech Support. They said the problem was on my end. I was told they wouldn’t replace it even though the mouse was still under warranty. As such, I bought a Razer Basilisk V2 with their optical switches. So far I haven’t had any debounce issues at all.”
Capture/Record a video while doing the troubleshooting
Video needs to show the website on the screen and the mouse
Register at least 100 clicks
The website will indicate if there are double clicks
Also include the mouse’ Serial Number and a handwritten note of the ticket number in the video
Needless to say, I’ll avoid anything by Logitech in the future. I now kick myself for returning the Razer Basilisk which had optical switches but similarly minimal Mac software because of said software. At least it worked very well and wouldn’t have had switch failure.
I just love my set up. It is very comfortable for working. I’m using the Boox more and more for note-taking. BTW, by way of answer to the “oldest tech still in use” question, it is clearly the Toshiba landline phone set on my desk. It’s been here since I started my own practice in 2000. Phone systems were all the rage at that time. Now, Verizon could care less about landline systems and getting them to come out for service on them is a PITA.
Yeah, I’d still be paying for a copper wire landline if I had that option, and I worry about the environmental impact of everyone w/ a VOIP phone system needing a lead acid battery for backup power so 911 will work ---- I think we’re on our 3rd or 4th such battery ---- yes, they are supposed to recycle them, but it still seems like a less than optimal solution.
If I move everything out of the way it does. :vb-agree: The desk belonged to my aunt before she passed away. My cousin said it belonged in a lawyer’s office.
Update on the Logitech G502 LightSpeed double-click left button issue. I noticed that the LinearMouse app I use on my Mac had an update that adds a mouse button “debounce” function.
… Or not. Debounce control via software doesn’t help against “no click”. The darn thing will randomly drop a file when I’m dragging it somewhere. Etc. Someday perhaps I’ll order a replacement switch and resurrect the thing. Or not, since I have come to detest it.
I’ve had enough vertical mice to finally learn that they turn the pinky side of my hand numb, which can last for days if I leave it alone or never go away if I keep using the mouse. Maybe because that’s where all the weight rests. Mild ergonomic mice such as the G502 or the Microsoft Precision Mouse don’t give me that trouble but, as seen, the G502 is not an option and the Microsoft mouse is not very pleasant to use when gaming (heavy, vague clicks, the mouse feet don’t glide well).
No Razer Basilisk Ultimate sale anywhere—I sure regret returning that $60 new one to BestBuy; I can live without the dedicated software and just endure the silly RGB pulsing all over the thing—however Amazon has the Razer DeathAdder V2 Pro at $70 (46% off) and there was a warehouse “like new” for $45. It’ll arrive Thursday. This one uses optical switches for the L/R mouse buttons so at least that aspect should be okay. Looks like only the Razer logo pulses. We’ll see how it goes.
I think I mentioned before that I seem to be cursed on this endless mouse search? I received the Razer DeathAdder V2 Pro order today—Amazon Warehouse “like new” for $45 instead of $130 MSRP—and inside was a very used Razer Mamba wireless mouse which retails for 50 bucks. I would bet that it’s defective as well. Clearly someone ordered the DeathAdder and did a return with their old mouse inside. Free upgrade. Thanks, you %&@#!
No replacement option from Amazon, just return for refund so I lost the good deal. And no simple UPS Store drop-off offered (where you don’t have to repackage or label, just show a barcode at the counter) even though a UPS Store is among the nearest drop offs. I had to print a label and repack it. And now I have to make an extra 30 mile round-trip with gas prices the way they are.
I am not a happy camper. They had an “Inspected and Approved” sticker on the darn thing. Yeah, right. Next thing you know they’ll suspect me of doing the switch.
Yeah I hate those kind of things. You always fear you’re going to be the one they don’t trust. Thankfully I buy enough cr*p on Amazon that thus far they’ve always chosen to believe me.
I’ve had this happen with an NVMe drive (back when they were expensive).
Someone swapped in and returned a defective drive with a different serial…which I then purchased from Amazon warehouse. When I tried to return it (would not boot), they told me the serial number didn’t match—and kept the drive—while still insisting I return the “real one”.
Complete sh*tshow…there was no convincing them. And of course I didn’t have the video evidence filming the product as it was being opened, zooming in on the serial number, to prove the return was the same product shipped.
For electronics, buyer beware for warehouse deals.
So at work the other day, someone seemingly abandoned a perfectly good 32 ultra wide 4K monitor, so naturally I decided to adopt it. Behold my current cubical setup. A Laptop Studio pushing two 32-inch 4K ultra wides, along with four 1080p monitors, and a Tab S8+ in super display mode
A long while ago, my desk setup was a pair of 21" Sun monitors being driven by a G5 PowerMac — used Xeric Design’s Earthdesk as my desktop, running it on both monitors and centered on places and scaled so that it made a seamless whole — miss that.
It was also surprisingly useful given the hours I worked and the frequent need to interact w/ folks in India and so forth.
You’re making me really want another Samsung 27" UR-55…
I’ll need to set it up on my Galaxy Book 12 when I get around to it.
Does the roll top still work?
