Windows 11 SSD Problem

Hi gang - after the KB5023706 23-03 Cum Updated for Win 11 22H2 my write speeds plummeted on my Samsung 1TB MZVLQ1T0HALB ssd on my Pro 8. They were in the 1000 MB/s range on Crystal DM 64 (SEQ1M and SEQ128k) and had dropped to sub 100MB/s. After removing 3706, they came back up to these numbers (note the big drop in RND4k reads as well):

Is this a Win11 issue or is my SSD fading - inquiring minds NEED to know? Do I need to backup and reinstall Windows at this point or start looking for another drive?

Neglected to mention it is 290/1022 used, so definitely not out of space…

PS - here’s the original CDM when I installed the SSD in the SP8:

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More info - my two external Sandisk Extreme ssds aren’t showing any slowdown:

Is your SSD Firmware up to date? If not: install Samsung Magician and check for updates. I personally don’t have that running in the background, but I do have a copy installed.

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I get the message on Magician: Samsung OEM SSD could not use Samsung Magician function. Samsung brand SSD is needed.

Translation: FUBAR - may be the drive going bad from a lot of different reports at various OEM sites with people having Write slowdowns. As you can see above, it was originally in spec (approx 1000 MB/s writes - not even as good as my external USB 3.1 drives - now 1/3 of that).

Did learn this is a PM991 M.2 drive - early Windows 10 days…

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Have decided to order a Sabrent 1TB 2230 to replace it - too many variables to parse with no help from Samsung since they say it is a discontinued OEM part so no driver support. Need to keep my computer running and safe from data loss.

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Not sure about that, translation could be “not supported by Samsung Magician”. In a long thread on this drive on the Dell forums, one person claims it’s “just” thermal throttling:

I have found the issue with the PM991a, these SSDs are not defective, there are no bad or good ones. The problem is extreme thermal throttling during writing, I checked my 256 GB PM991a again and observed the temperature using CrystalDiskInfo it went up to 72 degrees celcius.

So if you’re able to, might be good to check the drive temperature during the benchmark (appears to be a function of CrystalDiskInfo).

Sounds like a smart/safe move.

Going to give this a look!

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@JoeS According to CrystalDiskInfo jumped from 47C to 65C after the four write operations. I then “stood it up” (instead of reclined in drawing mode on my desk) and same slow write results and jumped from 44C to 64C

Did I ever mention I HATE COMPUTERS!

Now I went and read the referenced Dell thread, and I REALLY HATE COMPUTERS!


Here in Texas

Shoot Laptop GIF - Shoot Laptop - Discover & Share GIFs

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Not sure if that’s high enough to cause such severe throttling. Either way, if it’s really the thermals and the sensitivity to throttling, and if the current speeds are limiting your work/system enjoyment, the new drive sounds like a plan. Plus there’s still a chance the the drive is degrading rather than throttling (but I’m no expert). Might be best to go the safe route anyway.

Absolutely - thank Joe for the Dell info…

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Well, I fixed the overheating - pulled the hatch and turns out the thermal pad I put on the SSD was too thin - it was not making contact with the hatch. I put in a thicker pad which makes better contact with the hatch and after all rights it had only moved from 44C to 53C, well below the 60C redline (in CDInfo)…BUT…write speeds went even lower…

Short lived - overheated again on try #2 (65C) on READS then cooled back to 54C on WRITES - all over the place - only constant is slow speeds…


I’ve ordered a replacement Kioxia BG4 1tb 2230 (formerly Toshiba). Apparently it is what MS itself uses. It’s overall performance is “average” at best, but I keep finding reports that is almost the only reliable replacement for the Surface Pro 7+ and 8. Everything else, including the cheaper and 2-3x faster Sabrent has repeated problems with random restarts despite dozens of different tweaks and setting changes (including 3-4 registry edits). I just don’t need that anymore - I just want stability and reliability.

Plan on doing a fresh install from USB and reload everything - WHAT IS WRONG WITH ME - but I’ve just never trusted (nor had good luck) with cloning a drive.

Any thoughts/recommendations gang?


Replacement drive (Kioxia/Toshiba 1tb) installed and running - speeds are as advertised and temps never exceeded 55C, and that was brief, mostly 50C during CDM test. Now just 34 Windows 11 upgrades to go and then start loading my software/data…

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Oops - possible trouble ahead - it’s loading a 2023-3 Preview version of Windows - I’ve never been in the testing group - if it weren’t for bad luck sometimes I think I’d not have any…

OK - installs went better than expected but still showing only 21H2…so much fun…

Round 3 - went to MS and forced a download/update of 22H2, which worked, and it is now doing a normal update (2023-01) to 22H2 Build 22621.1413!

Why in the SAM H$LL when you do a restore from USB doesn’t MS load the most recent updated version to your computer…I know SOMEBODY who does that for their OS…

Last time I reinstalled Windows 11 I downloaded MS’ media creation tool (or was it the installation assistant? Also on that page), which then itself downloads a reasonably up-to-date installer image, and then offers to just directly install that as one of the options. I think that avoids having to install a lot of intermediate updates.

It’s one of these two:

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Thanks - and by pure accident that’s how I finally got to 22H2…

But WHY doesn’t MS just keep an up to date installer image on the site at all times - at least all the major updates? Here it is the eve of April Fools Day (how appropriate) and it loads 21H1 to start and after a half-hour round of updates I’ve only made it to 21H2 - took another hour and half, plus jinking with a forced re-download of Windows 11 (stumbled on to your suggested Windows 11 Installation Assistant) , to get to 22H2…